All natural lawn, plant, tree and shrub fertilizing
FERTILIZING LAWNS
Fertilizing is a basic method that has been practiced for many years in order to obtain healthy lawns. In addition to mowing and irrigating, it is also a cultural practice that is used keep lawns green and dense. With this article, you will have a better understanding of:
• Why fertilizing should be done
• Timing and application rates for optimum fertilizing
• Different types of materials in fertilizing
• Techniques for fertilizer application
• Tips on how to avoid environmental pollution and turf damage caused by improper use of fertilizers
Do I really need to fertilize my lawn?
A vast majority of the lawns in Oregon can survive even without the use of fertilizers. With survival in mind, there is really no need to fertilize your lawn, but take note that the grass growth is noticeably thinner, has a lighter shade of green, and sometimes brownish in color. Unfertilized lawns also have the tendency to have high weed growths. Also, unfertilized lawns are more prone to diseases like brown blight, rust, and red thread, especially to perennial ryegrass, which is the most common planted grass in Oregon. Lawns that are adequately fertilized look noticeably better than unfertilized or under-fertilized lawns, and can withstand and recover from extreme conditions at a much better rate.
How often do I need to fertilize my lawn?
In terms of frequency in fertilizing, one should apply as little amount of fertilizer possible to achieve your goal of producing a healthy turf and aesthetic standards. The timing, amount rates, and frequency of applying fertilizers will normally depend on the type of fertilizer, and the desired output in terms of turf quality. The type of grass and whether you leave the clippings on your lawn should also be considered in fertilizing.
For lawns that have clippings left behind on the surface from mowing, only a little amount of fertilizer is needed. For bentgrass lawns which are planted on clay soil, one application of nitrogen fertilizer is enough to last the whole year. For sandy loam soil, multiple fertilizer applications are necessary to keep the lawns green and dense, especially for perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass. For the lawn watering information, this is the best lawn irrigation company
After determining the quality you want for your lawn, you can follow certain schedules in fertilizing for the different levels of quality for your turf.
If you want to have a dense and consistently green lawn, application of nitrogen fertilizer will produce a noticeable and consistent effect in as short as 4 weeks and as long as 8 weeks. The effects of the fertilizer usually take longer when it is applied in cool weather such as during the fall or early spring seasons. Applying fertilizers to weak grass do not usually last long when compared to healthy and dense turf.
For a dark, green growth on your lawn, applying 1 pound of nitrogen fertilizer in every 1,000 square feet will produce visible result in as short as 1 week. Ammonium sulfate is a soluble fertilizer that can produce vigorous growth that can last up to 4 weeks. Fertilizers that have slow-release nitrogen will take longer to react but the effects will last longer. For more information on slow-release and soluble nitrogen, it will be discussed under “Types of nitrogen fertilizer”.
For most people who remove the clippings on the lawn surface, the growth and change in to lighter color will be visible in 4 weeks. Although the lawn will still be healthy and dense, the color will be slightly lighter. Leaving the clippings on the lawn will allow for the enhancement of growth and lasting intensity of the color for 6 up to 8 weeks. Leaving the clippings will extend the effect of the fertilizer with the additional nutrients added obtained from decomposition. As to popular belief, the clippings do not contribute to the buildup of thatch, rather prolong or extend the effects of the fertilizer.
For example, a landscape that uses a watch-and-wait method is aimed at using the smallest amount of fertilizer each year in order to produce a functional turf. Another approach is called the “special event” approach, where a small amount of fertilizer is applied a few weeks before any “special event” may take place at your home or lawn. It is quite effective and with minimum mowing efforts exerted.
Should I have my soil tested before fertilizing?
Just like before planting grass, the soil should also be tested before fertilizing. The test is repeated for each succeeding year and based on the results the fertilizing program will be adjusted. Athletic field locations and golf courses undergo this process on a regular basis, as supervised by turf managers who have an expertise in this area. Because finding a testing laboratory can be difficult, there are very few homeowners who are able to get soil on their lawn tested and get the results interpreted. If you believe that your soil has a problem, you may want to contact and consult an analytic laboratory professional.
Another alternative is to use a soil test kit which can be bought from a nursery and estimate the nutrient content in your soil.
What are the important fertilizer elements for lawns?
Nitrogen (N)
In almost all fertilization programs, the most important component is the nutrients found in nitrogen. When applied using the correct rates or measurements, it will improve the densit of the turf, stimulate the vertical growth, and reduce the risk of diseases like rust, brown blight, and red thread.
Nitrogen soil tests are also available, but seldom used. For fertilizer recommendations, the interpration is quite difficult, especially when the nitrogen levels in the soil fluctuate at fast paces.
Annual nitrogen needs. Perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass are two of the widely used types of turf grasses. These kinds need nitrogen the most, having an intermediate tall fescue. Bentgrasses and fine fescues on the other hand go by with low nitrogen levels pretty well. All of these grasses turn in to a darker green color after being applied with nitrogen fertilizer.
For lawns to achieve top quality bluegrass or ryegrass, 6 pounds of nitrogen in every 1000 square feet must be applied each year. For a turf with medium quality, about 3 to 4 pounds of nitrogen in every 1000 square feet is enough per year. With 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen in every 1000 square feet, you will also be able to achieve a functional turf. For fine fescue and bluegrass lawns, the amount of nitrogen needed is about half of what bluegrass or ryegrass needs to achieve any quality.
Nitrogen fertilizer application rates
In the previous paragraph, the total annual quantities for nitrogen have already been given. For two or more applications in one year, the total amount will be divided accordingly.
For the application of the nitrogen fertilizer, the rates usually range from half a pound to 1 pound of soluble nitrogen for every 1000 square feet of turf. If the amount applied is below half a pound of nitrogen, there will be poor initial response and the effects will not be as visible as using the recommended amount of fertilizer. If the applied amount of soluble nitrogen will exceed 1 pound, then there will be greater chances of excessive growth and foliar burn in the lawn. Commercial products usually indicate applying only .9 up to 1 pound of soluble nitrogen in every 1000 square feet. Basically, following the directions on the package will produce the desired or optimum results.
For thin and weak lawns, and for lawns that are fertilized late in the fall or early in the winter seasons, the application rates can sum up to a total of 2 pounds in every 1000 square feet.
Remember though, that the rates being mentioned here refer to the amount of nitrogen to be used for application. For commercial products, the labels usually indicate the amount of nitrogen in percentage. (For more information, refer to “How can I decipher a fertilizer label?”). Below, a table shows how the amount of fertilizer to be applied can be estimated referring to the percentage of Nitrogen content and the rate of application that you prefer.
Pounds of product needed to apply 1, 1.5, or 2 pounds nitrogen per 1000 square feet turf:
(target rate = 1, 1.5, and 2 pounds nitrogen per 1000 square feet respectively)
5% nitrogen in fertilizer = 20.0, 30.0, and 40.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
8% nitrogen in fertilizer = 12.5, 18.8, and 24.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
10% nitrogen in fertilizer = 10.0, 15.0, and 20.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
15% nitrogen in fertilizer = 6.8, 10.2, and 13.6 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
20% nitrogen in fertilizer = 5.0, 7.5, and 10.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
25% nitrogen in fertilizer = 4.0, 6.0, and 8.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
30% nitrogen in fertilizer = 3.4, 5.1, and 6.8 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
35% nitrogen in fertilizer = 2.9, 4.3, and 5.7 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
40% nitrogen in fertilizer = 2.5, 3.8, and 5.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
45% nitrogen in fertilizer = 2.2, 3.3, and 4.4 pounds of product per 1000 square feet