All natural lawn, plant, tree and shrub fertilizing

FERTILIZING LAWNS
Fertilizing is a basic method that has been practiced for many years in order to obtain healthy lawns. In addition to mowing and irrigating, it is also a cultural practice that is used keep lawns green and dense. With this article, you will have a better understanding of:
• Why fertilizing should be done
• Timing and application rates for optimum fertilizing
• Different types of materials in fertilizing
• Techniques for fertilizer application
• Tips on how to avoid environmental pollution and turf damage caused by improper use of fertilizers

Do I really need to fertilize my lawn?
A vast majority of the lawns in Oregon can survive even without the use of fertilizers. With survival in mind, there is really no need to fertilize your lawn, but take note that the grass growth is noticeably thinner, has a lighter shade of green, and sometimes brownish in color. Unfertilized lawns also have the tendency to have high weed growths. Also, unfertilized lawns are more prone to diseases like brown blight, rust, and red thread, especially to perennial ryegrass, which is the most common planted grass in Oregon. Lawns that are adequately fertilized look noticeably better than unfertilized or under-fertilized lawns, and can withstand and recover from extreme conditions at a much better rate.

How often do I need to fertilize my lawn?
In terms of frequency in fertilizing, one should apply as little amount of fertilizer possible to achieve your goal of producing a healthy turf and aesthetic standards. The timing, amount rates, and frequency of applying fertilizers will normally depend on the type of fertilizer, and the desired output in terms of turf quality. The type of grass and whether you leave the clippings on your lawn should also be considered in fertilizing.

For lawns that have clippings left behind on the surface from mowing, only a little amount of fertilizer is needed. For bentgrass lawns which are planted on clay soil, one application of nitrogen fertilizer is enough to last the whole year. For sandy loam soil, multiple fertilizer applications are necessary to keep the lawns green and dense, especially for perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass. For the lawn watering information, this is the best lawn irrigation company

After determining the quality you want for your lawn, you can follow certain schedules in fertilizing for the different levels of quality for your turf.

If you want to have a dense and consistently green lawn, application of nitrogen fertilizer will produce a noticeable and consistent effect in as short as 4 weeks and as long as 8 weeks. The effects of the fertilizer usually take longer when it is applied in cool weather such as during the fall or early spring seasons. Applying fertilizers to weak grass do not usually last long when compared to healthy and dense turf.

For a dark, green growth on your lawn, applying 1 pound of nitrogen fertilizer in every 1,000 square feet will produce visible result in as short as 1 week. Ammonium sulfate is a soluble fertilizer that can produce vigorous growth that can last up to 4 weeks. Fertilizers that have slow-release nitrogen will take longer to react but the effects will last longer. For more information on slow-release and soluble nitrogen, it will be discussed under “Types of nitrogen fertilizer”.

For most people who remove the clippings on the lawn surface, the growth and change in to lighter color will be visible in 4 weeks. Although the lawn will still be healthy and dense, the color will be slightly lighter. Leaving the clippings on the lawn will allow for the enhancement of growth and lasting intensity of the color for 6 up to 8 weeks. Leaving the clippings will extend the effect of the fertilizer with the additional nutrients added obtained from decomposition. As to popular belief, the clippings do not contribute to the buildup of thatch, rather prolong or extend the effects of the fertilizer.

For example, a landscape that uses a watch-and-wait method is aimed at using the smallest amount of fertilizer each year in order to produce a functional turf. Another approach is called the “special event” approach, where a small amount of fertilizer is applied a few weeks before any “special event” may take place at your home or lawn. It is quite effective and with minimum mowing efforts exerted.

Should I have my soil tested before fertilizing?
Just like before planting grass, the soil should also be tested before fertilizing. The test is repeated for each succeeding year and based on the results the fertilizing program will be adjusted. Athletic field locations and golf courses undergo this process on a regular basis, as supervised by turf managers who have an expertise in this area. Because finding a testing laboratory can be difficult, there are very few homeowners who are able to get soil on their lawn tested and get the results interpreted. If you believe that your soil has a problem, you may want to contact and consult an analytic laboratory professional.

Another alternative is to use a soil test kit which can be bought from a nursery and estimate the nutrient content in your soil. What are the important fertilizer elements for lawns?

Nitrogen (N)
In almost all fertilization programs, the most important component is the nutrients found in nitrogen. When applied using the correct rates or measurements, it will improve the densit of the turf, stimulate the vertical growth, and reduce the risk of diseases like rust, brown blight, and red thread.

Nitrogen soil tests are also available, but seldom used. For fertilizer recommendations, the interpration is quite difficult, especially when the nitrogen levels in the soil fluctuate at fast paces.

Annual nitrogen needs. Perennial ryegrass and Kentucky bluegrass are two of the widely used types of turf grasses. These kinds need nitrogen the most, having an intermediate tall fescue. Bentgrasses and fine fescues on the other hand go by with low nitrogen levels pretty well. All of these grasses turn in to a darker green color after being applied with nitrogen fertilizer.

For lawns to achieve top quality bluegrass or ryegrass, 6 pounds of nitrogen in every 1000 square feet must be applied each year. For a turf with medium quality, about 3 to 4 pounds of nitrogen in every 1000 square feet is enough per year. With 1 to 2 pounds of nitrogen in every 1000 square feet, you will also be able to achieve a functional turf. For fine fescue and bluegrass lawns, the amount of nitrogen needed is about half of what bluegrass or ryegrass needs to achieve any quality.

Nitrogen fertilizer application rates
In the previous paragraph, the total annual quantities for nitrogen have already been given. For two or more applications in one year, the total amount will be divided accordingly.

For the application of the nitrogen fertilizer, the rates usually range from half a pound to 1 pound of soluble nitrogen for every 1000 square feet of turf. If the amount applied is below half a pound of nitrogen, there will be poor initial response and the effects will not be as visible as using the recommended amount of fertilizer. If the applied amount of soluble nitrogen will exceed 1 pound, then there will be greater chances of excessive growth and foliar burn in the lawn. Commercial products usually indicate applying only .9 up to 1 pound of soluble nitrogen in every 1000 square feet. Basically, following the directions on the package will produce the desired or optimum results.

For thin and weak lawns, and for lawns that are fertilized late in the fall or early in the winter seasons, the application rates can sum up to a total of 2 pounds in every 1000 square feet.

Remember though, that the rates being mentioned here refer to the amount of nitrogen to be used for application. For commercial products, the labels usually indicate the amount of nitrogen in percentage. (For more information, refer to “How can I decipher a fertilizer label?”). Below, a table shows how the amount of fertilizer to be applied can be estimated referring to the percentage of Nitrogen content and the rate of application that you prefer.

Pounds of product needed to apply 1, 1.5, or 2 pounds nitrogen per 1000 square feet turf: (target rate = 1, 1.5, and 2 pounds nitrogen per 1000 square feet respectively)

5% nitrogen in fertilizer = 20.0, 30.0, and 40.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
8% nitrogen in fertilizer = 12.5, 18.8, and 24.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
10% nitrogen in fertilizer = 10.0, 15.0, and 20.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
15% nitrogen in fertilizer = 6.8, 10.2, and 13.6 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
20% nitrogen in fertilizer = 5.0, 7.5, and 10.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
25% nitrogen in fertilizer = 4.0, 6.0, and 8.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
30% nitrogen in fertilizer = 3.4, 5.1, and 6.8 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
35% nitrogen in fertilizer = 2.9, 4.3, and 5.7 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
40% nitrogen in fertilizer = 2.5, 3.8, and 5.0 pounds of product per 1000 square feet
45% nitrogen in fertilizer = 2.2, 3.3, and 4.4 pounds of product per 1000 square feet

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Types of nitrogen fertilizer

When it comes to nitrogen fertilizers, they are classified based on the rate at which the nitrogen is released, specifically its accessibility to plants. Buy smart pots The two broad types are slow-release nitrogen and water-soluble nitrogen.

Right after watering it in, water-soluble nitrogen is readily available and promotes the growth and dark green color of the lawn. For soluble fertilizers, the effect of nitrogen does not last very long, which is why it is necessary to apply the fertilizer frequently in small amounts to regulate the required supply of nitrogen to the lawn. Ammonium nitrate, ammonium phosphate, urea, and ammonium sulfate are some examples nitrogen fertilizer components that are water-soluble.

The salt-like characteristics of water-soluble fertilizers are the ones that cause burning or desiccation injury as it draws out the water from leaf tissues. When the turf is moist and urea or ammonium sulfate is applied, the problem occurs when people do not immediately water the lawn. To avoid foliar burn, the turf should be thoroughly irrigated after any water-soluble fertilizer is applied. One will know whether the lawn is watered long enough when the granules are washed off the foliage, or have become completely dissolved.

The characteristics of slow-release nitrogen fertilizers on the other hand are low water solubility therefore the nitrogen is slowly released over an extended period of time than that of soluble fertilizers. This means that the growth response and change in color intensity is slower and fertilizer burn is less likely to occur. Also, this type of fertilizer is much more expensive while water soluble nitrogen fertilizers are much more affordable.

Nitroform and Nutralene or methylene ureas are the common forms of slow release nitrogen fertilizers together with SCU or sulfur coated urea, PCSU or polymer coated SCU, PCU or polymer coated urea, IBDU or isobutylidenediurea, and other protein based, natural, and organic sources like mixtures of feather meal, dried blood, activated sewage sludge, and dried poultry waste.

When the soil microorganisms break down the synthetic methylene ureas, the nitrogen is released. In warm or hot weather, the microbes are more active, thus making it more effective in the summer and less effective in spring and winter.

The release of the SCU nitrogen is almost entirely dependent on the water that allows the sulfur shell to dissolve the urea. The nitrogen is released at higher temperatures faster by these products, and compared to slow release sources, the nitrogen is released faster by the common SCU materials. This kind of source is common in many kinds of fertilizers.

In dissolving the urea, the water that passes through the polymer shell is where the PCU and PCSCU rely on to be diffused in the soil. Next, the nitrogen will be absorbed by the roots of the plants. In warm weather, the nitrogen is released faster and slows down significantly when the temperature of the soil drops to around 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

As for IBDU, it depends on the process of water hydrolysis in order for the nitrogen to be released. Compared to polymer coated or natural fertilizers, the soil temperature has no effect on the nitrogen that needs to be released. No matter what time of the year, IBDU is highly effective to be used. In applying it for the first time, the response may be weak, but is very effective after repeated application over a long period of time.

When the soil microorganisms break down the protein based natural products, the nitrogen is released. This means that these products are highly dependent of the temperature, releasing nitrogen faster in the summer and fall months wherein the temperature of the soil is high. The effects are similar to the useof PCU, PCSCU, methylene ureas, and IBDU. In Oregon, these organic and natural materials are widely used.

Both slow release and soluble sources of nitrogen are combined in commercial products to achieve a fair initial response and lasting effects. Intermediate cost and lower risk for burns are among the other benefits of using commercial fertilizers.

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Types of Phosphorus (P) fertilizer

Phosphorus does not have any effect on the growth or color on a healthy turf. In contrast to what has been stated in garden books, magazines, and newspaper articles, the growth of the root in grasses is not enhanced by phosphorus, unless this component is added to a turf that is already deficient in Phosphorus. There is an adequate amount of Phosphorus in a wide range of lawns, making supplemental applications a waste.

When the soil tests indicate a low amount or deficiency, then it is the best time to apply phosphorus. For all Oregon regions, a soil test that indicates a phosphorus level that is above 20 ppm means that there is an adequate amount and there is no need to make supplementary applications.

In case the need to apply supplementary phosphorus arises, it should be used sparingly. A functional turf hardly benefits from an excess of 1 pound of P2O5 in every 1000 square feet each year.

When fertilizers are said to be “complete” it means that they contain potassium, phosphorus, and nitrogen. For frequent applications on lawns, use fertilizers that have little or no phosphorus. On commercial products, phosphorus is labeled as P2O5, also known as phosphoric acid. Commercial products that have the same or similar ratios to 15-15-15 should be avoided because they contain excessive amounts of phosphorus that average lawns need. These products also increase the possibility of phosphorus pollution in surface waters.

In choosing composts and natural or organic fertilizer products, one must be extra careful as these products contain excessive high levels of phosphorus.

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Types of Potassium (K) fertilizer

For a healthy turf, potassium is another important component that is applied in huge or abundant amounts. Although it does not have any effect on the growth or color intensity of the lawn, potassium is known to enhance the resistance of plants to extreme weather conditions such as heat or cold. It also reduces the risk of wilting from drought and increases the wear tolerance of the turf.

In Oregon, a general rule is that the potassium level in soils that are below 250 ppm is in an indication for fertilization with potassium. Using this standard as the basis, many of the lawns in the eastern part of Oregon do not require potassium fertilizer. On the other hand, the soil potassium in western Oregon is low, indicating a regular application for the fertilizer.

The application rates for potassium should be equivalent to two thirds of the nitrogen rate. For example: for every 3 pounds of nitrogen, there should be 2 pounds of potassium. A commercial fertilizer with a label that has a 12-3-8 will have an appropriate ratio of nitrogen to potassium. Remember that in commercial products, potassium is labeled as K20, also known as soluble potash.

Iron (Fe)

Iron is used in very little amounts as required, that is why it is called a micronutrient. Turfgrasses with deficientcy in iron is not very common, but is possible to occur on soils with pH level greater than 7.0 like in eastern Oregon. A high pH level in soil indicates that there is limited availability of iron to the plants.

For commercial fertilizers, iron is a common component because the greening response is quickly noticeable. In most fertilizers, soluble iron is present and is noticeable because of the brown stains on driveways and concrete sidewalks when applied with water. The removal of these stains is difficult to remove, and can be expensive when purchasing stain removal solutions or hiring the services of experts. One of the best ways to prevent stains is to buy fertilizers that do not contain iron. If you are already using a fertilizer that contains iron, you can prevent stains by blowing the fertilizer back to the soil before irrigation.

How can I decipher a fertilizer label?

According to state law, fertilizer bags should have appropriate labels printed with the necessary information. One of its main purposes is to give the consumers a guarantee that what they are paying for is contained in the product, based on the printed labels. If the contents are analyzed and do not match what the label indicates, the state will charge fines to these fertilizer companies. All commercial fertilizers have key information printed on the labels. Before choosing, you may want to compare several products first to find out how each one is different from another.

For a well-balanced and fertile turf, a ratio of 6-1-4 in complete fertilizers must contain nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. For other popular brands, the potassium content may be lower, but consumers can be confident in using complete fertilizers with ratios like 6-1-4 and 8-1-2.

For winter, spring, summer, and fall, fertilizers are marketed according to these seasons. Slow release nitrogen is a major component in summer fertilizers. Winter fertilizers have more potassium content than fertilizers for other seasons. The truth is, this adjustment in fertilizer content has no effect on the soil, but rather a marketing strategy by companies to encourage consumers to buy several different products for every season of the year. Staying with an efficient fertilizer ratio is enough to be used all year round, still getting the results of a functional and a beautiful turf.

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pH, Calcium (Ca), and Magnesium (Mg)

Both calcium and magnesium hardly have any effect on the color intensity and growth of grass. These components mainly impact the pH level on the soil. When applied as limestone, the pH acid level of the soil is indirectly raised and the turf fertility is improved.

For turfgrasses that grow in varying ranges of soil pH, the optimum range is the most significant mainly because the soil retention of the needed nutrients and the availability for growth of the turfgrass is increased.

An acidic soil means that there is a low pH level. These are common in the western and coastal parts of Oregon, and are quite rare in the eastern and central parts.

If the pH value from the soil test indicates that it is below the average range for lawn grass, the pH level will rise with the help of a lime application. With the use of lime, it will usually take at least 2 years for the pH level of the turfgrass to change. The reason for this is that lime cannot be mixed into lawn soil because it is not very soluble.

Dolomitic limestone and agricultural limestone are the two common types of lime. Calcium and magnesium are both present in dolomitic limestone while agricultural limestone contains only calcium.

In order to determine which type of limestone to use, getting a soil test for magnesium and calcium is recommended. Agricultural limestone is used for soil with magnesium levels exceeding 1.5 meq per 100 grams of soil. Dolomite is used if the magnesium level is lower than 1.5 meq per 100 grams of soil. In Oregon, areas where there is magnesium deficiency are on the coastal counties, and these are the places where dolomitic limestone will be beneficial.

For another general rule, the maximum lime application is at 50 pounds lime for every 1000 square feet. For an established turf, the total application in one year will be 100 pounds lime in every 1000 square feet. Split applications are required between the spring months and fall months in order to prevent the accumulation of lime at the surface of the soil.

After liming, urea or ammonium sulfate found in nitrogen fertilizers should not be applied as the lime is still present in the soil, it may cause the ammonium to vaporize, and evaporate in to the atmosphere.

Optimum soil pH ranges for commonly grown turfgrasses:
(Type of grass – optimum pH range)
Bentgrasses: 5.0 – 65.
Perennial ryegrass: 5.5 – 6.5
Fine fescues: 5.5 – 6.5
Tall fescue: 5.5 – 6.5
Annual bluegrass: 6.0 – 7.0
Kentucky bluegrass: 6.0 – 7.0

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